Monday 3 October 2011

Longing for Truffles

Every October I pine for truffles.  It so reminds me of my extreme culinary trip to Alba and Barolo.  The hillsides of Italy, beautiful rolling farmland, vineyards and an epicurean feast at every corner.  The joint in Barolo that looks like a pool hall ends up being one of our most fantastic meals.  Imagine our surprise when the waiter tells us the chef's specials are two braised dishes; rabbit in Dolcetto wine and wild boar in Barolo!

The best culinary experience  was the truffle of Alba.  It is served a number of ways, as it is celebrated through October and November which is truffle hunting season.  A simple ravioli stuffed with Fontina and truffle, dressed  with butter and a shaving of truffles.  So simple, but unbelievable taste sensation.  My favourite preparation was also very simply prepared and it is called  "Fonduta con tartufi".  It is simply an Italian fontina cheese fondue with shaved truffles.  Truly decadent and satisfying.

I brought back a cookbook from the region called "Nonna Genia" which captures the essence of Piedmontese
cooking and if you manage to get a copy will renew your appreciation for tradition and beautiful, simple food.
If you manage to get your hands on a fresh truffle, I strongly suggest that you try Nonna's recipe for Funduta with Truffles.

Funduta con Tartufi

1 kg ( 2.2 lbs) of Italian Fontina ( please look for Italilan fontina as it makes a world of difference)
Milk (whole)
10 egg yolks
100g (scant 1/2 c) butter
shaved Alba truffle ( the recipe calls for20-30 g per person or 1/2 to 1/3c per person)  Obviously just use as much as you can afford if you, like me, are not fortunate enough to go truffle hunting in Alba.

Cut the cheese into small cubes in a deep bowl and cover with milk.  Let stand for 2 hours.  In a double boiler
combine egg yolks and butter.  Heat slowly!  Add Fontina and milk and stir vigorously while it melts.  It will become rather gooey and stirring it will help it to thicken again.  When it has reached a dense consistency, remove from heat and top with shaved truffles.  Serve immediately with crusty bread, cured meats and a glass of Nebbiola d'Alba.  Take me now!  I mean back to Alba... Enjoy.  Gina